Gripper Assembly

Printed Parts:

• Pneumatic/electrical harness
• gripper spacer

COTS Parts Needed:

• M3 bolts [various]
• M3 nuts (x9)
• Pneumatic coupling (x3)
• Female barrel jack connector (x1)
• Pneumatic tubing
• M3 heat-set inserts
• [M5?] bolts (x4)

Materials Needed:

• Solder
• heatshrink tubing
• [28?] AWG stranded-core wire
• Flush cutters/wire nippers
• Wire strippers

Equipment Needed:

• Soldering Iron
• Lighter or heat gun

Pneumatic harness and wiring

Step 1:

Take one of the digikey pre-crimped female wires and cut it in half. Insert both halves into one of the JST connectors to make one cable. Repeat two more times for three cables.

Step 2:

Begin by trimming ~5mm off of the longest lead of the female barrel jack connector. Solder the wires according to [this diagram below]. Trimming of some wires may be needed, and lengthening of others may also be needed to reach the furthest finger while also leaving enough slack for the robot arm once the gripper is installed. It is recommended to add heatshrink to the solder joints on the barrel jack.

Step 3:

Insert the barrel jack connector into the electrical and pneumatic harness ensuring that the barrel terminal is coming out of the side that was flat on the build plate while printing. Snap in three of the pneumatic couplings as well.

Baseplate Assembly

Step 1:

With the bottom side of the acrylic baseplate on the table, install three M3 heat-set inserts into the top, ensuring they are flush with the surface by pressing with a flat piece of metal. Screw in the pneumatic and electrical harness into these two holes from the other side so that it is on the bottom.

Step 2:

Insert a SCANS finger into each hole until bottomed out against the nuts on the finger. Screw in more nuts from the backside. Plug in the three wired connections to the back of each finger.

Step 3:

Place the palm spacer on the baseplate between the three fingers and attach the baseplate to the UR3 with four [M6] bolts.